Saturday 13 June 2015

It's a celebration!



 
Jazz im Park, Pankow
 
Berlin has had its share of festivals and celebrations lately, beginning with the May Day festivities.  We went down to Oranienstrasse where food stalls and live music stages lined the street and a joyous atmosphere prevailed.  However, it was so crowded that at one point I genuinely feared that I would be crushed.  I was also dismayed at the number of expensively dressed trust funders, especially the suntanned, perfectly-toothed one brandishing a selfie stick.  Such individuals can surely have little or no sympathy for the principle of May Day and really only want to be there so they can be seen.
There was more breathing space at the Berliner Braufest at Neue Heimat.  A very dark and chilly day punctuated by scatterings of rain could not dampen the enthusiasm of the city’s beer aficionados.  Some very judicious selections had to be made from the 72 stalls.  I started off with a Mikkeler which brought back happy memories of evenings spent in the Mikkeler bar in Copenhagen, then moved on to sample the double IPA at Leeds-based Northern Monk.  After a Craftwerk Belgian-style Tripel we decided to go in search of food.  I had a suitably stodgy burrito before heading back and starting on the Brewcifer Chilli spiced IPA then the Spent Brewers Collective Red Oat Ale.  The evening began to grow chillier so we took our drinks indoors, sitting on Neue Heimat’s pallet seating and braving the elements only to fetch more beers. 
Dark skies but great atmosphere
 
Heading indoors

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
On the last of the three bank holidays in May, the intimate Jazz im Park festival took place at the lovely Bürger Park in Pankow.  We were invited to lunch with friends who live a half-hour’s gentle stroll from the park, and Fran – an intimidatingly good cook – served schnitzel and potatoes with what seemed like a ton of the fat, white Beelitzer Spargel and home-made hollandaise sauce (as it’s Spargelzeit the city’s residents are in the grip of asparagus mania).  We ate in the garden where we lingered with a bottle of white wine before setting off late in the afternoon for the festival. With Norah the dog in tow.  Sipping cocktails and chilling to the live jazz acts as the sun went down was the perfect ending to the weekend. 
The Karneval der Kulturen also hit the streets of Neukölln in May but I was unable to get to that as I went to the final game of Bundesliga 2 at the Alte Försterei instead.  Last games here are always stirring occasions with pre-match presentations being made to departing staff.  After the game, the players were joined on their traditional lap of honour by midfielder Benjamin Köhler, who in January was diagnosed with stomach cancer.  Köhler and his team mates wore ‘Beat Cancer’ T-Shirts as they threw shirts, shorts and boots into the crowd.
Football has been big news in the city recently with the German cup final (DFB Pokal) and the Champions League final taking place on successive weekends in the Olympiastadion, and the women’s Champions League final which was held at the Sportpark.  The city was awash with Dortmund fans for the Pokal and Barcelona fans for the Champions League final (for some reason fans of Wolfsburg and Juventus, the teams’ respective opponents were largely invisible).  Once more, we watched the Champions League final in a bar in Moabit with friends.  The S-Bahn train back to Alexanderplatz was full of very dejected-looking Juventus fans for whom, without having any great affection for their team, I had to feel some sympathy.
As far as literary events go, I’ve been to another Fiction Canteen in the Platzhaus at Teutoburger Platz and am now considering plucking up the courage to read something at the next one which will be back at its usual location of the Alte Kantine in Wedding later this month.  I also went to a whimsical event called the ‘Dead Ladies Show’ hosted by Katy Derbyshire and Florian Duijsens at ACUD.  The evening was a celebration, in English and German, of the lives, loves and works of Irmgard Keun, Dorothy Parker and Pola Negri.  Katy Derbyshire began proceedings with an account of her ‘dead lady’ Irmgard Keun before interviewing author Daniela Dröscher about her novel ‘Pola’ based on the life of Polish-born Hollywood femme fatale Pola Negri.  Finally, Florian Duijsens gave a presentation on Dorothy Parker.  I missed May’s Guinness Books and Records at Curious Fox because of a meeting and I won’t be able to go to the next one as we’ll be in England.  I am however planning to look in on their ‘Bloomsday’ celebrations on 16th June when the day is given over to the honouring of James Joyce’s Ulysses.
Sundays have largely involved checking out the dining options at Streetfood auf Achse in the Kulturbrauerei and mooching around the Mauerpark.
            Streetfood auf Achse, Kulturbrauerei
 
         Traditional Mauerpark treasure-hunting
The festivals continue with the first Music and Streetfood Open Air Festival at Neue Heimat and the start of the Berlin Beer Week this weekend.
 

Wednesday 10 June 2015

Playing Catch-Up


I’ve neglected the blog somewhat lately; it's been five weeks since I last posted anything.  The last time I left such a gap was when I was ill last year and felt too lethargic to write.  This time it’s down to a combination of factors, but mainly because I’ve been working at the call centre for the past five weeks.  If the work here was permanent we would earn enough to enable us to stay in Berlin permanently but as things are our German isn’t up to conducting surveys in anything other than English so we only get work when English speakers are needed.  We have another week to go but I have heard that more English studies are planned for the summer. I do hope so because each month that we work earns us enough to stay another month here.
We should be returning to the UK at the end of December but after the General Election result I’m dreading having to go back.  I’m genuinely concerned about the direction things seem to be going in under the vicious venal Cameron government.  In the immediate aftermath of the election I sent off a fresh round of applications to various language schools which attracted depressingly predictable replies.
As part of my ongoing project to improve my German (and thus my employment prospects) I have acquired another tandem partner.  Annett is very politically aware, she likes The Smiths and Joy Division and she writes so we have plenty in common. 
As ever, I’ve kept myself busy writing.  I’ve finished the job of proofreading and editing the children’s book but I have been asked if I’d like to do some further proofreading later in the year which of course I’ve said yes to but again it’s nothing permanent.
I’ve been doing more unpaid writing too.  Several weeks ago I approached Paul Sullivan of Slow Travel Berlin about writing an article on Topics bookshop (whose owner Doron wrote the kid’s book I’ve been editing) and was asked to put together a few paragraphs on this and two more of the city’s newest bookshops that would be used to update an existing post.  For this I interviewed staff in Soda, a magazine and bookshop in Weinbergsweg with a focus on design, and Bildband in Immanuelkirchstrasse which deals predominantly in photo books but also has a section devoted to art, architecture and design. 
I’ve made more (albeit halting) progress with my main writing project which now stands at 92,000 words, and I’ve also been practicing writing shorter fiction, something I’m not particularly comfortable with but I’m imposing the challenge on myself because it can only help.