Christmas traditions old and new in the Hauptstadt.

December in Berlin is all about Christmas.  The city’s commercial activity is firmly focused on it as florists begin to trade almost exclusively in poinsettias, fir branches and mistletoe, gingerbread and stollen start to appear in the bakeries and we allow ourselves to be enticed by the festive flavours of the Christmas markets.

There are markets of all kinds and with varying levels of razzmatazz, from folksy craft markets to full-on kitsch fests with skating rinks and fairground rides.  One (Potsdamer Platz) has a toboggan run, while others have an ‘alternative’ or ‘green’ focus.  But everyone has their favourites and one of mine is the Scandinavian-themed market at the Kulturbrauerei.  Its attractions are fairly low-key; some, such as the glühwein yurt, are charmingly unique.  It also has the added allure of being very close to where I live.

 

 

Flammkuchen vendor in the Kulturbrauerei

 

 

Finnish specialities proving popular

Another market I’ve always had a soft spot for and generally pay a visit to at some point is ‘Weihnachtszauber’ in the Gendarmenmarkt with its characteristic ‘tented’ stalls.  This seems to be a perennial favourite on the ‘top markets’ lists, not least for its beautiful setting.  Outside in the square live music is played, while indoors there are pop-up versions of nearby restaurants, a champagne bar and stalls selling good quality hand-made crafts.    

The lovely traditional market in Rixdorf only runs on the second weekend of Advent in this atmospheric corner of the city.  The stalls are run by locals or charities so there is a slight feeling of being at an open-air church bazaar but that for me makes it all the more in keeping with the Christmas spirit.  Attractions include a blacksmith and a little stable complete with donkeys. 

 

 

The market occupies the pretty streets around Richardplatz

 

 

Little donkeys!

 

The ‘Holy Heimat’ market at Neue Heimat in Friedrichshain is like a cross between a market and a ‘Bite Club’ event.  It’s an enchanting place to spend a couple of hours but I’m not sure the two-Euro entry fee is altogether justified.

 

 

Festive food truck at 'Holy Heimat'

 

 

Friday afternoon: a quiet moment in the bar 

Leaving the markets behind, last Tuesday evening we headed over to the Stadion and der Alten Försterei, home of 1. FC Union Berlin, to take part in the now traditional ‘Weihnachtssingen’ event.  This began a few years ago when a handful of fans broke into the ground to sing Christmas songs and has since grown into an organised, ticket-only annual event.  27000 people, mostly Union fans, gather to hold lighted candles and sing their way through a peculiar medley of Christmas hymns and football chants.

 

 

Union's red and white home colours are perfect for a Christmas event

 

The evening began the way an Union home game always does, with the crowd singing along to the club’s atmospheric anthem ‘Eisern Union’ by Nina Hagen.  Then followed the singing, readings from the club chaplain and a visit from the ‘Weihnachtsmann’.  The original spirit of the Weihnachtssingen may have disappeared but, with the twinkling candlelight and the stirring sound of ‘Stille Nacht’ ringing around the ground, I find it one of the more delightful and unusual of the city’s seasonal events.