Tuesday 22 April 2014

A Good Vintage...


Of the (admittedly few) things I had to sacrifice on moving to Berlin, I’m happy to say that my penchant for vintage shopping wasn’t one.   Most weekends in England, I would devote some time to exploring the vintage shops either in Digbeth in Birmingham, Hockley in Nottingham or further afield, and much pricier, Brick Lane in London.  I also spent many a Friday afternoon rummaging in the charity shops of my native Burton with my mum.  Berlin, to my great delight, has its share of vintage and second-hand stores, often concentrated in particular areas; Friedrichsain, Kreuzberg and Neukölln all have vintage enclaves.  The concept of recycling and reusing is ingrained in the city’s psyche – the many bars where the furniture looks as though it came from skips, and the custom of leaving no longer needed goods out on the street for passers-by to give new homes to are just two examples – so it’s the perfect environment for the cultivation of a thriving vintage scene.  As with everywhere else though, quality and value can vary enormously. 
The Kleidermarkt group has four vintage shops – ‘Garage’ in Schoeneberg, ‘Colours’ in Kreuzberg and two branches of ‘Made in Berlin’ in Mitte.  The Made in Berlin shops carry some appealing and good quality stock but it is a little pricy (a similar item can be much cheaper in Garage or Colours) and it’s a long time since I did anything but browse in them – I think the last thing I bought was a black trilby about three years ago during the Tuesday afternoon ‘happy hour’.  Garage, opposite the Croatian embassy in a cul-de-sac near Nollendorfplatz, is a real destination shop.  It is huge and a visit here can take up hours, but there are some great finds if you have the time to root them out.  All sorts of people shop in here; I once saw a girl jumping up and down and going into raptures over an old wedding dress, and on another occasion I spotted a bearded man disappearing into the fitting room with an armful of dresses.  On my last trip here I tried on about twenty leather jackets before buying a white pleated midi skirt, a black 80s-style top and a red belt, spending a total of €11.  The belt came from the ‘kilo’ section which is always worth a look; the clothes here are priced according to weight at €19.99 a kilo.  Whatever your purchases weigh, you pay the relevant amount.  It’s best to be cautious though because, although there are bargains, there is also some tat, and a lot of heavier items – bulky tweed skirts, leather etc. are on the kilo section’s rails.  Every time I’ve been in Garage, they’ve had a particular item on offer.  For example, one week all skirts will be a certain price, another week all blouses will be half the ticket price and so on.  They also have tubs full of hats and scarves, handbags, belts and other accessories.
Colours, in the corner of a hof just off Bergmannstrasse (they certainly make finding these shops a challenge, although there are signs on the street pointing the way), is similar in kind to Garage with a kilo section and item-specific special offers.  The prices are also reasonable.  If I had a favourite I would have to say Garage, with Colours an extremely close second.  Each of the stores has a weekly ‘happy hour’ with generous discounts, details of which can be found on the Kleidermarkt website: http://kleidermarkt.de 


 
The entrance to Garage

In general the second hand shops around Prenzlauer Berg are off-limits because the prices are in the extortion bracket, but I usually pop into ReSales http://www.secondhandandmore.com/  – a chain of second hand stores – at least once a week.  There is a branch on Prenzlauer Allee, and another on Shönhauser Allee which  I’ve bought a few things from  – a black tube skirt, an oversized black T-shirt, belts and scarves, but I think my favourite buy was a floaty green and blue dress for €4 which looks like the kind of thing you’d wear at a 1930s garden party. 

One place I always like to visit if I’m down that way is Paul’s Boutique in Oderberger Strasse http://www.paulsboutiqueberlin.de/  There are always plenty of trainers here – I picked up an Adidas pair for €10 – and brands such as Fred Perry and Ben Sherman are well-represented.  They also have lots of T-shirts and sensibly-priced vintage dresses.  It’s suitably cramped inside as there’s a lot of stock for the amount of space, and there are more rails sprawling out onto the street.  It’s always fun delving around in here; good music, friendly staff and lots to investigate. 
 
Paul's Boutique
 
Recent years have seen the emergence of a more ‘upmarket’ version of the vintage/second-hand store – light, bright interiors, often with in-house coffee shops, and carefully selected and neatly-displayed stock which eliminates the need for rummaging.  Such places are havens of tranquillity and very pleasant shopping experiences but for me all of this departs from the ethos of vintage shopping.  I love walking into a shop that looks like a jumble sale, where stock is piled chaotically, the fitting room is an insufficiently curtained-off corner, and DIY fashionistas explore in earnest.  There are still plenty of shops like this but thrift-store prices are becoming a thing of the past.   It’s one thing paying a sizeable sum for a genuine vintage gem but too often I’ve seen chain store cast-offs that were probably cheaper when new. 
It’s a similar story at the weekend flea markets with which Berlin abounds.  They are great for atmosphere and people-watching, as well as general browsing, particularly the ones at the Mauerpark and Boxhagener Platz, but bargains are scarce and they can get crowded.  I often visit the one at Arkonaplatz (Sunday 10.00 – 6.00) not far from the Mauerpark.  It’s smaller and less commercial than its neighbour and the range of wares covers the spectrum from abject tat to covetable vintage.  There were some beautiful kimonos last time I was there but not in my price bracket I’m afraid.  There is also a nice little market on the third Sunday of the month along the Maybachufer in Kreuzberg.
O.F.T. www.ohnefragetoll.de/  in Chausseestrasse is a shop with the feel of a flea market.  It’s a lovely, ramshackle shop selling not only vintage clothes but furniture, lighting and all sorts of wares from days gone by.  It’s worth a visit just for the atmosphere – the staff are friendly too.
 
O.F.T. 

Charity shops tend to be thin on the ground in Berlin, the ‘Humana’ shops and a couple of branches of Oxfam being rare exceptions.  Humana http://www.humana-second-hand.de has thirteen shops around the city, some of which are huge, practically warranting a day out.  At the Frankfurter Tor branch, the accent is on vintage.  Spread over three floors, the store is a mecca for Friedrichshain hipsters and bargain-hunters alike.  I bought a black dress from here which can be worn by itself or over a T-shirt as a pinafore, in perfect condition, for €9.  The branch in Eberswalder Strasse is much smaller, so far more manageable but likewise focused on vintage.  I often pop in here if I’m in the area.  There is a daily happy hour between 11.00 and 12.00 when a 20% discount applies across the board.  Items I’ve picked up here include a couple of ‘granny’ dresses, a sparkly 80s-style batwing-sleeved jumper and a pair of vintage ski pants.  I ended up cutting the stirrups off the ski pants and turning them into trousers but I like the high-waisted style of them.

 
Humana - Eberswalder Strasse
The two Humana stores along Karl Marx Strasse in Neukölln are also worth checking out, and the almost warehouse-sized branch at Alexanderplatz is fun to while away an hour or so in – much more so than the monstrous ‘Alexa’ mall nearby.
Although I’m not a fan of vast, impersonal malls, I do shop in high-street chains – shopping for ‘new’ is unavoidable – but it is so much more fun when you can put together an original outfit or ‘look’ or when you unearth a special item that remains a beloved staple for years.  There are also ethical and environmental benefits in buying re-cycled clothing and, if using charity shops, an obvious philanthropic aspect.  I have my favourites – there are many more besides those I’ve mentioned here – and although good, affordable vintage becomes increasingly harder to find, Berlin remains a great place for shoppers from the ‘create-your-own’ mould.

Some not-very-professionally-styled pictures of some of the things I've bought from vintage and charity shops in Berlin:


 
Sparkly black jumper, skirt with 'Staffordshire knot' pattern
and Converse boots all from Humana, belt fromReSales
 
 
Skirt and belt from Garage, T-Shirt and trainers from Paul's Boutique
(I think the T-Shirt was a sample as it was brand new and still had the tags attached)

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